Zut alors! It’s crowded!

Months ago, when we started planning this leg of our trip, we read several articles warning of unprecedented crowds and continued revenge travel in Europe this summer. 

We thought Florence and Rome were fairly crowded when we visited in early May. But with timed entry tickets and reservations booked months in advance, we were able to enjoy our visits. Yes, there were many tourists at Galleria dell'Accademia, but the crowds ebbed and flowed so that, with a little patience, we got real close to David and even had plenty of elbow room. Yes, the Vatican was crowded, but with an expert guide to help us navigate to quieter corners, we were able to hear her stories and learn about the incredible space and art, making our visit wholly worthwhile. 

I wish I could write the same about our visits to the Louvre and Versailles. 

At the Louvre, the most famous museum in the world with 9 million annual visitors, we were shoulder-to-shoulder with approximately 25,000 of them. Together, we shuffled up the main staircase to get a glimpse of The Winged Victory of Samothrace. We squeezed our way into the room where Venus de Milo stands. We weaved our way through a stanchion maze until we met Mona Lisa – very briefly – before employees whose sole responsibility was to keep the crowds moving, were shouting, “n’arrêtez pas s’il vous plaît.” 

At the Palace of Versaille, where an average of 27,000 people visit daily, we followed a tour that led through the King’s Residence, the Hall of Mirrors, and then the Queen’s Residence. It was a one-way path that brings you through surprisingly small and intimate rooms for a palace that covers 720,000 square feet. We were funneled through doorway after doorway for an hour or so, acutely aware of the singular feature Louis XIV overlooked in his 17th century construction project – air conditioning. 

We were grateful to escape to the outdoors for more space and fresh air. After waiting just an hour, we hopped into a golf cart to explore the Gardens of Versaille.

It was impressive in its size (if that’s your thing), but I would argue that it was just as lovely as the much less crowded Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris.

The Noonans much preferred the quieter, less crowded places in Paris. We stayed at an Airbnb in Montmartre and strolled past florists and artists, cafes and shops. We climbed to the top of the Sacre Coeur and tasted the most delicious beef bourgogne at Le Cabanon de la Butte.

We visited the newly renovated Oval Room at the Bibliothèque Nationale and galleries at the Musée d’Orsay, admiring books, art and architecture with far fewer crowds.

We enjoyed our week in Paris and felt like we maximized our time in the City of Light, but we were also ready to say “au revoir” and head a bit further south...